Your body's microbes are really small cells that are alive and work together to help keep us healthy and alive. In the gut, they do things like make essential amino acids and vitamins, control the immune system and break down toxins. It’s well-known that probiotics for the gut are good for us. It’s also now clear that topical probiotics for our skin are just as important and significantly changing the way we should be caring for our skin
WHY PROBIOTICS FOR YOUR SKIN ARE IMPORTANT
Our skin is home to over 20% of our total microbial diversity and probiotic skincare has the power to shift this population towards a more balanced state. Balanced skin is happy skin, which not only looks better but also ages much slower. Probiotics can do a lot more though, like helping clear troublesome conditions such as acne, rosacea and eczema.
WHAT DO PROBIOTICS ON YOUR SKIN ACTUALLY DO?
Scientific research now tells us that they can:
Produce moisturising factors, such as hyaluronic acid, to keep skin hydrated
Promote barrier function, keeping pathogens out and moisture in
Maintain pH at the skin’s preferred acidic level
Break down skin toxins so they can be removed
Influence the skin’s immune response to keep it calm and unstressed
It’s no wonder that probiotic skincare is fast becoming one of the hottest topics in the industry. From innovative, small independent companies to large multinationals, the level of interest in this new understanding of our skin is astonishing.
A-Z GUIDE ON PROBIOTIC SKINCARE
At the heart of the matter are microbes. A microbe is a single-celled organism and includes things like bacteria, yeasts, fungi and viruses. Our microbes are mostly beneficial to us, or at least not harmful. Some of them can be detrimental if not kept under control.
Think of the microbiome as the total population of microbes living in and on our bodies. They create an amazing and highly complex ecosystem which thrives on diversity and being in balance. The microbes residing in and on our skin are – not surprisingly - called our ‘skin microbiome’.
The World Health Organization defines probiotics as live micro-organisms (microbes) that, when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host. Makes sense to us!
There are two key words here : “Live” which tells us that a probiotic must be alive and capable of growing (or developing “colony forming units” in more scientific terms). The other key word is “benefit” i.e. a probiotic is not harmful.
There is a rapidly growing body of quality scientific research from all around the world which shows the benefits of probiotics applied to the skin.
It’s really hard to do this in formulating a topical skincare product as there are a number of practical and technical challenges. For a start, you can’t use harsh preservatives, because preservatives are designed to kill things like bacteria and other microbes. Nevertheless, a few highly innovative companies like Esse Skincare have already successfully devised solutions to these challenges and there will certainly be more manufacturers doing so in future.
Not all current probiotic skincare products are created equal, however. Sometimes “probiotic” claims are really referring to non-live probiotic extracts or probiotic derivatives used as ingredients. So, what are these and why are they used?
There are several different types of extracts from probiotics or derivatives of probiotics which are not alive and cannot develop and grow, that are being used in skincare. These include
The by-products from the probiotic growth process, with the actual probiotics filtered out
The cell contents of probiotics (sometimes referred to as ‘lysates’)
Whole, but permanently deactivated, cells of probiotics
While these do not have the same effect as true probiotics in complementing the skin’s live microbiome, there is scientific research supporting skincare benefits being provided which validates their use. The attraction for skincare manufacturers is that these are much easier to include in conventional skincare product formulations.
Just to confuse things a little, there are also Prebiotics. Prebiotics are essentially food for our beneficial microbes.
Carefully selected prebiotics are included in some skincare products to supplement the nourishment and development of your skin’s ‘good’ microbes, while not providing the same nourishing benefits to ‘bad’ microbes.
Our bodies are really ecosystems. Ecosystems are robust and healthy when they include plenty of diversity, their components are in balance and they are unpolluted.
A healthy skin ecosystem means our skin thrives, is unstressed and calm, the rate of ageing slows and it looks its radiant best. A weak skin ecosystem on the other hand shows itself through poor skin condition, which can take many different forms, and results in an increased rate of visible ageing.
We don’t know all the answers yet, but even as we continue to discover more about our microbiome and probiotics, the message today is clear: learn to love your microbes and they will love you right back !